Kookaburra to Cathedral Rock N.P.

Monday 4 June : Kookaburra to Blackbird Flat

78km 5 h 20 min.

On and on and on...

I was welcomed by a round of applause from Neil as I emerged from my tent at about 7:15am. I'd been up and checked out the very blue toilet before I'd even heard a bump from their cabin. There's nothing like having a go at a poor solo cyclist - plenty have taken the opportunity before.

I was delivered a bacon bun by Andrew a short time after. It was a good thing the morning held mostly down hill riding as I couldn't have eaten it otherwise. Well, I would have eaten it because it smelt so damn good, and then would have suffered the stomach-queasy consequences later. When we were all basically done with the packing, for we were all moving on, a ratio of cameras to people presented itself which was astounding. 5:6 it was, and I reckon Andrew had a camera somewhere but wasn't taking one because he figured there'd be so many available that it wasn't worth it.

We parted ways at a most official 9am on a mild morning that for me held a ride towards the village of Bellbrook. The word brook had suddenly become prominent in the naming of places since Walcha a few days before. Odd really, and somewhat Imperial. As I rolled down the hill towards where the huge birds were dining yesterday, I had a very convincing feeling that I'd see these folk again - as a group, or individually. Odd really (again) as I'd not had that sense before on the trip. Also, there was noting to suggest that we would meet again as I wasn't going back to Walcha and was by passing Armidale. Hayden's Hut was the name of the hut near the birds, and Hayden was the tax man dodging cedar feller.

Followed the Warbo Brook through grazing land. When you see that you are going to be following a creek/river/brook on a topo map you assume that it will be fairly consistent either down or up. This is never the case unless you're on the Nullabor Plain. It certainly wasn't the case with this 'brook' that I was following and it certainly wasn't the case in most other situations - most notably the Eaglevale to Dargo road. The cows were somewhat edgy in this area. It is odd (again) that cows in different areas respond in different ways. I'm not sure if it's a breed trait or a human handling developed response.

Had lunch at the church just to the north of where I joined the Armidale - Kempsy Road after crossing what I think was the Macleay River (above). I'll have to check on that. The tank at this church was elevated so there was no chance of me filling my water bottles. Perhaps the minister enjoyed the luxury of good water pressure. The two toilets here were worth checking out - one in ruins and the other fairly newish. I saw a similar scenario south of Crookwell. You'd wonder how the congregation could take such care and give such attention to the building of worship, yet obviously disregard the other house of worship until it fell into disrepair.

Soldiered on to Bellbrook surprisingly quickly but this was probably due to the bitumen under tyre. Stopped at the pub there to ask about camping spots further up the river as I felt I could go a bit further, not, as Garry had queried in the morning, to spend their Cancer Fund donations on amber fluids. (It's still in my wallet Garry!) The barman there was most helpful and told me about how he was going to walk the BNT from Ebor to Bellbrook later in the year. Good on him. It'd be a nice walk to do I figured as we looked over my topo map. He also told me that people canoe down the river here. It starts about 80km from the coast but with all the winding of the river's course it is actually about a 300km canoe. Didn't my eyes light up at that idea for a hot summer.

Stopped at the shop to buy something to soak the chain in to clean it. Ended up buying a litre of kero because I liked it's blue colour. Not really. It seemed the best choice at the time. Rode and pushed on another 17-19km to arrive at Blackbird Flat a council recreation area by the river's north bank.

It was getting late but the priority was to get that chain clean. I looked around for an old plastic bottle to cut in half to use as a rinsing bowl for the chain. Do you think I could find one? This place was one of the best I'd come across for having no rubbish. Good job people. I eventually found an old 1.25L bottle in the flood debris at the end of the recreation area. Lucky or I would have had a cooking bowl stinking of kero and perhaps a flaming and sooty dinner a bit later on. Much gunk came off the chain. Much gunk came off the dismantled derailleur. Much gunk came off the rear cluster, and much gunk came to find itself on me, my hands and deep under my fingernails (which I noticed were getting a bit out of control length-wise). I set it up to soak the chain overnight (thanks again occie straps) and then worried about dinner preparations. I was certain that no one could ride away on my bike tonight as it was laying in pieces under a little picnic shed on a picnic table.

A sloppy tuna spaghetti was on the menu tonight by candle light. My company was the moon and a few cows in the next paddock who got a bit vocal for a while. No mozzies, but a few other insects flew by. Was asleep by 6:30 only to wake at 11pm and then 2:15am, at which time I decided I'd read myself to sleep. Can't even remember what it was I was reading.

Tuesday 5 June : Blackbird Flat to Styx River Forestry Hut

37km, 3h 40min + an 8km lift!

What's next Mr Bike?

It was warm down at this altitude (about 180m elevation). I woke up sweating in my sleeping bag which confused me at first until I realised that this was normal for this altitude and being this close to the east coast. I let my feet dangle out of the 'escape hatch' at the bottom of my sleeping bag. A handy feature which Jenny (sales at K2 Base Camp) said was handy for when you wanted to join two sleeping bags together. I don't see that happening on this trip somehow.

It was foggy outside which didn't alarm me. It's better than smoky isn't it? I knew it would clear because that's just a climatic pattern I'd noticed recently. Approximately 20km to George's Junction and then a climb up the range... with 3rd gear fading slowly and 4th starting to be affected unless the clean chain and parts was the answer. I got smelling of kero again after reassembling the bike. Oiled it up a bit and went for a test ride. Tuned the rear derailleur in and everything seemed ok. Loaded the bike and without gaining a metre the whole chain jumping drama started again. Being less than impressed I rode on and encouraged myself to deal with it etc. Heard a funny clicking noise and stopped to find a spoke had broken on the rear wheel. Luckily it was one I could actually get to and replace when I got the chance.

I had planned to get to Georges Junction in the late pm of today but because of the extra kms yesterday I found myself there at 11am. The road had followed the edge of this river very closely, and at one stage I found myself on the 'wrong side' of a large crack in the road surface where there'd been some landslides. A little nervous cycling to sharpen the attention.

Millions of rocks line the bed and banks of this river. I'd even go as far to say billions because it's a long river and the stones are there the whole way apparently. I counted about six or seven, but then got bored and figured it was a fruitless and uneconomic task. See yesterday's photo.

I had a fruitcake based lunch which two horses were very interested in. I shared a bit with one and the other was too late in arriving. A bit of a rest for 40 minutes in the sun and then I strolled down to the river to fill up on water and to wash off a bit. Water looked great but with the amount of grazing land upstream I wasn't going to take any chances. When filling my water bottles I added the trusty Puritab - a chlorine based purifier so I feel like I'm back in Brisbane. Strangely, with the tabs from this particular packet I can really taste the chlorine, while with the previous packet that I'd finished by Scone, I couldn't. Perhaps they changed their recipe, or perhaps the old packet was a placebo. Sodium dichloroisocyanurate is the only ingredient it seems. Which reminds me of a funny little scenario I experience regularly. Every thing you buy is put in a plastic bag or little paper bag. I have been asking for just the receipt with the item (excepting groceries) and often get a strange look... even though I'm the scraggliest human in the town and am holding my helmet.

There were many graves from the notorious Georges Creek along the road heading to the range climb, but I didn't see one. The guidebook had them pointed out but I was obviously a little off target. Rolled around a corner after about 5km and the hill started. A nice day for a climb, but I was unsure about my chances of actually riding much of it with my chain problem.

About 300m in, and actually riding, I came across a council vehicle and a roller. Talked to the worker there and spoke of what was ahead and what I was doing etc. The grader came down the hill and then I figured with it out of the way I'd continue. The newly graded road was soft and this was bad news. 50m on I heard a click like a chain jump but my pedals spun furiously. I got off and looked down. I then sort of looked up, paused and then looked down again. Was I really seeing a broken chain? Ahh yes, a broken chain. Another item for my list, but something I could easily fix in about 20 minutes at the most. I was more annoyed that it had fallen into the dirt than that it had actually broken seeing I had spent so much time cleaning it the previous evening. I hung it over the bidons and just pushed.

The grader driver pulled up and we continued our chat and I highlighted my most current problem. He offered to pick me up at the end of their day of roadworks (in about an hour) if I wanted. I said "Probably a 'yes', but I'll see how I go". I fixed the chain after pushing another 2 to 3km and then pulled over to fix the chain. This operation was completed without a drama at all. I rode about a km more before the council twin cab caught up to me. I gladly accepted the invitation for a lift to the forestry hut at the top of the hill and so we lumped the whole bike in the back and continued. A good idea as the road only got steeper and it was getting late. The senior member of the crew notified me before I got in that he had no money on his person to which I replied "Neither have I". I agreed with him that you never do know. (This lift totaled about 8km, so had not broken the double figures here yet with the inclusion of my 1km Mt Skene lift in Victoria.)

Had a chat to these blokes and the forestry man called David. The council blokes left me some oranges out of their stuffed plastic bags full, and I was thankful for these, as my vitamin C intake had been very minimal. David got a fire organised in the hut and said "Use as much as the wood as you want, we've got plenty more", which I thought was particularly amusing since I was in a state forest.

I prepared and put a damper on a fire to be jealous of. Plenty of room, wood and oxygen to burn in this location. Upon returning from my water collection I saw an ember glowing nicely on my thermarest which I was not at all pleased with. I swatted it off expecting to see a gaping hole. It had only burnt a nice hole about 2cm x 1/2cm wide, but only piercing the surface by a few pin prick holes.

It was nice to be in a secure hut. David mentioned that others might arrive unannounced (similar to myself) but that I had the authority to welcome or refuse them since I was there first. The only visitor I ended up having was a possum in the middle of the night who found my little bag of rubbish outside and quietly abducted it never to be seen again. Come to think of it, a rat did scamper past from one cabinet to the other not long after I'd settled to sleep. Maybe not as secure as I thought, or maybe he was 'secured in'.

Tomorrow it would rain and I would stay for a rest day, or it would be fine and I would ride to the Point Lookout area and have a rest the following day. Regardless of the weather though, I would have to assess the situation with the bike and clean my clothes.

Wednesday 6 June : Styx River Forestry Hut to Styx River Camp/Point Lookout

25km, 2h 40 min, max 311km/hr.

Organisation, a decision and tolerance.

No joke. That was the maximum that read on the odometer. Barney reckoned if I broke into triple speed figures on the MTB on this trip I'd go into the local MTB hall of fame... for insanity I think. I don't know what I get into for tripling that figure though. I reached this remarkable speed riding up a rocky gravel road wondering if I should get off and push the bike. Needless to say - I did burst out laughing when I saw it flash up on the display.

Earlier in the day I'd 'fixed' the odometer - the sensor on the front fork that I'd had to mend not far out of Licola had packed it in for good, but everything else seemed to be working. I removed the gaffa tape case I'd created all that time ago and fiddled with the angle of the tiny metal strips (that touch to complete a circuit as it passes the magnet attached to a spoke). I got a response that was consistent so was heralding myself and this achievement until I got going ...and it started giving readings similar to the one above.

Anyway, here's a time breakdown of the 24 hours :

4:30 Woke, peeed, stoked the coals, finally got inspiration to write a book from the web site (Inspiration doesn't keep to a schedule, and particularly not mine)

6:30 Woke, cereal, water in 20L tin to boil on re stoked fire

7:15 Washing clothes started, another damper made, wearing real clothes

8:00 Talked to David for a while then 1/2 an hour later the council fellas (this point is their regular 'smoko' stop), realised upon bike inspection in good light that nearly every tooth on every cog is shot... some teeth barely exist

9:00 David had offered the phone when he made a call as there was a plug in the hut (I'd noted this yesterday), I plugged in the iBook and sent and received emails tried to get more info on Yahoo! web space but it appears you have to accept their advertising on it

10:00 Washing out drying, lunch of sardines and oranges (!), examined maps for an idea of the topography to Point Lookout some 21km away according to the sign down the road, hut had 1:25 000 topo of the forest on a board hanging near the fire which helped

10:45 Pondered what to do while the washing dried - found a calendar and read all the interesting bits besides the numbers and repeating day names, here are the highlights :

A. "It takes a long time to become young" Picasso

B. "You can get almost anything accomplished if you don't mind who gets the credit" Ned Hay (I'd get rid of the 4th word)

C. Winter Solstice is on the 21st of June

D. In one month it's 'Picnic Day' in the Northern Territory. Hmmm.

E. My birthstone (turquoise) symbolises 'luck and love'

F. The National Tidal Facility is at Flinders University in South Australia

12:00 Fixing odometer and checking bike for other unnoticed 'errors'

12:45 Started packing up

1:00 Checked up the road for a fire tower and found 4 cement plugs where its feet would have been, noted remarkable maximum speed, rode on towards Point Lookout

3:15 Without a doubt I am going to Armidale tomorrow to get this bike fixed

4:00 Puled over to Beech Lookout which gave tremendous views south and east, a bit of damper to eat, almost there - and end in sight for the pathetic pushing (it's so unpedalable that I almost have to push down the hills)

4:15 Pulled in at Styx River Huts but then went around to the Styx River camping area, starting to spit rain but not much wind

4:40 Wood search and it seemed to be everywhere - not often do public campsites have this simple resource

5:10 Cathedral Rock N.P. sounds like a good spot to go - I'll stop there on the way back from Armidale

5:30 Dinner of soya bean and rice curry

6:00 Swigged the last 2/5 of Cougar by a dying fire as I contemplated my vehicle's woes

7:00 Changed my torch's batteries and went from squinting before hand to squinting after hand, and then transferred photos - see the foggy torch technician dressed in trendy thermals above

7:30 Sleep

12:20 Other campers still tinkering

1:30 Another 4WD arrived and set up camp with the established campers and then proceeded to listen to a variety of music at unnecessary levels, chat and make other noise until 4:30am

Thursday 7 June : Styx River Camp/Point Lookout to Wollomombi Falls

42km, 2h 10min.

Yeah, all right. I'm on my way.

I had a brain wave about my trip into Armidale. Instead of riding the whole way in, I'll stop halfway at Wollomombi Falls and camp the night. The following day I'd do an out and back to Armidale with a minimum load. This still equates to a 3 day side trip but seems the most logical solution keeping in mind the propulsion problem I'm having. I will also get two nights at the falls, which is cheaper than staying in Armidale for two, and I can see another the falls along this road which is called 'Waterfall Way'.

This is one of those ideal situations in a trip where the changes in direction and plans offer their rewards. Besides being able to ride my bike (!) when it gets fixed, I'll also see Wollomombi Falls, a bit of Armidale, and Cathedral Rock N.P. - three places I would have bypassed if I was to continue from here.

Rode up to Point Lookout for... a look. Had packed everything up and had locked it in the tent. There was no stirring from the neighbours. Took some photos of some most interesting natural features and views while in New England N.P.. On the way I passed another camping area (about 1km away) which had... showers. I ignored it with all the disbelief I could contain. Walked my bike along a walking track which was very pretty. Very pretty indeed. (Check out the tree below - it was weird indeed. The white in the valleys is fog not water.)

At the 'summit' (about 1500m) there was a lot of info about how the area was formed geologically. Ebor used to have a volcano that no human, or mammal for that matter, ever saw. I was told it was possible to see to the coast and see the ocean's horizon from this point on a clear day. I could see clearly as far as about Bellingen, but not Bellingen itself. One of my best high school friend's parents live in Bellingen and used to own Planet Lighting. Don't know if they still do, and have lost contact with 'Iggle-bum'. This is a bit side tracked, but I actually missed my high school 10 year reunion due to being on this trip. A real shame as I envisioned doing a lot of jaw dropping and questioning and chatting at that event.

Gathered the gear and then set off. 100m and then pushed up a hill, but after that didn't push at all. Bitumen is so much easier to ride on. Rode the 40km to Wollomombi by 11:15 fuelled by a Powerbar and a desire to get the riding over and done with. Stopped for lunch at the Wollomombi store and got a few things for dinner plus a Hema NE NSW coast map which would guide me all the way to Brisbane for $6.95. Outside the store, which was more than you average store, an amusing but stereotypical event was unfolding. Two cars full of uni students were leaving and one car wouldn't start. Fellas got out and were pushing and it actually started before it ran into the dead end at the bottom of the hill. Lucky for them but not for the air which wasn't all that clear once the motor was running in this particular vehicle.

Rang the Armidale bike shop and told the bloke there my woes. He was most helpful and would order the parts in immediately from Sydney. A big relief that I remembered to ring as it would have really made my day to turn up at the shop and not have fitting parts there.

Four km to the Wollomombi Falls where I set up on one of the very neat little areas they had built. Flat, fireplace, lightly grassed and semi secluded from other sites. Went for a ride to see the falls and went through a dingo fence in the park which had an interesting blurb beside it. I'd noted coming through a very tall fence along the highway just to the east of Wollomombi so this was obviously a part of that. One thing's for sure, and that's that no dingo would find their way around the end of this fence as it ended abruptly at the gorge's edge.

Upon my return I saw some rangers so I raced back to the tent to get my maps So I could ask about some sections in the national parks ahead. The rangers are your friends. It sounds corny, but they have and share an unbelievable amount of knowledge and tell you about stuff that's not on the maps... if you're nice. However, it's not often that you catch them 'on location'. I knew that I would get some information off of these rangers as there was about 5 of them plus some other 'guests' or trainees or something. One wore a white shirt with the regular badges and embroidery attached so I assumed he was something special... or had accidentally bleached his shirt. He directed me to two of the 'regular' rangers who were most helpful and interested in what I was doing. I've got my little narration almost perfect. I've had so much practice it's ridiculous.

That drop is over 200m. Check out the big rock slides (yellowish) and the grazing land edging the gorge (above centre falls).

The road through the Chaelundi area was good apparently and had been a 2WD road a few years ago. This was good news as it meant instead of having to go around the roads to the east near Dorrigo and Grafton I could cut straight up the middle from the Ebor area, parallel to the BNT (rocky river negotiation - horses yes, MTB no), and remain in national parks and forestry areas. Just the news I was looking for as it would save me two days of travel and it made this side trip a little less time important I would be a day ahead of schedule anyway, but this path would put me way back in the 'day black'. Like the Nundle route, this was a route I had originally planned to take 6 months ago, but it had not been on any of the maps. My adjoining topo maps had the start and end of the road but no middle marked and this is not a good thing.

Curry, rice, chicken flavouring, a bit of brown sugar and sultanas cooked up made a fantastic second course. First course for dinner was a can of potato salad I'd bought at the Wollomombi (easier to type and pronounce than Wallerawang) Store... which is more than just a store. It hit the spot, and so at my return party there will be potato salad. Yum - and this stuff was only home brand stuff from a can.

I organised my panniers for the dash in tomorrow and then sat by the fire drinking Sustagen, while listening to the tinkering of the other campers. A couple with one of those trailer based explodable sort of setups had pulled up in the site next door and were taking an unusually long time to get it organised. It was getting dark but they had a lantern that would bring moths from surrounding countries in the summer months. I thought my half an hour to set up was a long time. It's nothing I figured after coyly watching this over my fire.

*********

I have a note in my paper journal that says *Pen was in jacket!*. Here's a short story : I have this great pen with a sort of calligraphy type nib. It is just the most satisfying thing to write with. I'd packed it in Brisbane but had been using a ball point until I found it deep in my bar bag when I was at Gundaroo. It had become one of those priceless things associated with the trip from my perspective. I'd lost it earlier today and was extremely, extremely disappointed that I had to dig out the old ball point to jot down some notes. I'd feared the worst for this pen as I was in a bit of a hurry this morning and could have left it anywhere. I found it tomorrow morning.

Friday 8 June : Wollomombi Falls to Armidale ...and nearly back!

76km, 3h 47min.

The people you meet.

Left on the bike at 7am for Armidale before any of the other 4 groups of campers had made a sound. It was nice with the load which basically included the iBook, camera, snacks and real clothes. Mostly downhill and no pushing which was tremendously nice, but I was still pedaling tentatively. I had plenty of time to think and so I did. Here's a sample :

-- 'Significant Roadside Environment Area' signs littered along this road and they appear to be just wider patches of the lane way which the road runs in or (very funny) old gravel and shale pits or cuttings.

-- 'Litter Patrolled Area' signs every now and then, and as you can probably guess these were the most littered areas of the road. Aren't we humans funny.

-- This is the New England area and it is indeed very like England (not much newer though). A particularly English house and garden is on the north side of the road about 15km out of Armidale on the Waterfall Way.

-- Is New South Wales still new?

-- Just to the east of the house above is a bridge and the river had reeds which are a deep forest green (my favourite colour) but tipped with a bright orange colour. Very nice to look at.

-- A 24hr pub stint running from a Friday afternoon to a Saturday afternoon with time tabled events through the 24 hours is an interesting concept. For example you could come in for the darts competition at 2am and then stay to watch the poker competition at 4:15 while the snooker knockout continues. Perhaps an extended fund raising idea for those who know some pub owners. An entertaining all nighter.

-- Develop a tyre for road touring cyclists that doesn't require a tube and can be turned inside out - one side knobby and the other side slick. You heard it here first.

-- On the driveways in most areas now that are off a major road there are numbers on a small tin plate. These numbers are the distance in tens of metres from the nearest ambulance station (usually). For example : a driveway 15km and 360m from the station has a plate numbered 1536. I think it's called rural numbering or something similar. The concept was developed or first trialed in Queensland (depends who you talk to) around Murgon and Kingaroy. It reduces emergency services response times tremendously.

--When you have a problem that weighs heavily on your mind it affects everything else you do in some way. I haven't been thinking clearly for days as the bike problems have been foremost in my mind. Little things get left unnoticed and experiences are tainted with a 'shadow'. Knowing that the bike would be totally rideable by the end of the day was an enormous relief, and as I approached Armidale I wished that I could re ride the last 4 days again. So it is with life.

At Armidale I dropped my batteries and iBook in for recharging at the generous info centre and then went to the bike shop and left the bike and a considerable list with Mark Bullen, the bloke who would solve all my bike problems. I have never been so happy to see a bike mechanic.

Got some more fuel and a topo for the Chaelundi area from the camping store and then wandered towards the mall to the post office. Had a 'Ned Kelly' pie which was a real treat at a pie shop. Read the local community paper while eating it but the two were less than complementary. Looked in some other shops as I strolled along. As I walked through the mall I heard a broad Scottish accent call "Michael". What a crazy world.

I sat and had a chat with Andrew and then he bought me a roll of choice (chicken and avocado) form a stylish little cafe type place called Filling Groovy. I told him that I had a feeling I'd run into one of the Kookaburra crew again and explained my presence in Armidale. It wouldn't have been hard to spot me - the most bedraggled looking character in the city walking around with clicking shoes, a stuffed plastic bag, an overgrown beard and the same clothes I'd been wearing when I'd seen him last. One of those moments really. It was so nice to know someone.

On to the post office to send some maps etc, to K-Mart to treat myself to the new REM CD, to Franklins to get some groceries and then to the fruit and vege shop and butcher for some fresh stuff. I thought I'd tell you that, regardless of how mundane it is.

Back to the bike shop where a sparkling bike was waiting for me. This was just the best. The bill was not the best, but that's to be expected when you have worn the most expensive parts to nearly nothing. I cannot say enough about how professional the service here was - the best I've ever received in a bike shop - and I let them know. Mark had the parts delivered from Sydney and in his shop in less than 24hours, the bike was fully checked and cleaned, and I was kept well informed on the whole process. All this in a rural city with about 20 000 people. In fact, I was very impressed with the attitude and service of all of the folk I encountered and dealt with in Armidale.

Picked up the chargers and iBook from the info centre and then rode via Maccas for a thick shake to power me back to Wollomombi. I averaged about 20km/hr on the return trip and felt good through to 25km where I started to feel the drain of having ridden nearly 70km. I slowly overcame the mentality of tentative pedaling and was overjoyed that every gear worked.

About 8km from the falls a ute slowed as it passed me. This isn't the best thing, as it's nice to have less time 'holding your line' when vehicles pass. I almost waved this bloke faster as he rolled by. As I came around the next corner I found the ute had stopped and the driver was getting out. Wouldn't you know it - it was Garry from the Kookaburra crew. I was just shaking my head in amazement. We had a chat and Garry pointed out that where we'd pulled up was opposite to where he was living and working. He suggested I roll in and see his father who was working on site and ask him to take me to get my gear from the falls and then stay the night. He had a meeting to go to but would be back in the evening. I asked for his father's name since there appeared to be a few blokes on the site and he said with an unusual look that his name was Neil.

Mark at the bike shop had told me about the Wollomombi Store's Friday night activities with local property hands and folk coming in and meeting, sharing the week's catch, drinking and getting social. (It's more than your average store.) This was something I was looking forward to but figured that a real bed, familiar company and a new place was more attractive. When I asked for Neil at the site, Neil stood up and I almost burst out laughing at how stupid I'd been. No wonder Garry gave me the strange look when I asked for his father's name - this was the Neil I knew from Kookaburra. I just didn't pick them as father and son at all. I told Neil of my idiocy and also met his grandson Christopher who's a QLDer and who frequents the Beaudesert area. A crazy world indeed.

Neil took me out to the falls to gather the gear and then to an interesting little place called Hillgrove which was and still is a mining town. We drove slowly through the main drag. The township has erected little signs where major buildings stood in its hey day. A great concept as it gave you a feel for how many people used to live there. Apparently it was much bigger than Armidale for years. Another book I wouldn't mind buying was in the tea cottage where we had a hot drink. It had all the history of the place and facts, figures and fotos as well.

Upon returning to St Helena Station we went up to the house which Garry was living in temporarily while building the structure I'll tell you about tomorrow. This was the second house on the property - a visitors cottage if you like. Only thing was, it was a dead set dream home. I was amazed at the place. Even more amazing was that it had been cut in half with a hand saw and moved by ferry and then semi trailer from a spot on the coast. Neil showed me around and I was just wishing it was mine. Neil and Garry had been involved in the moving of the house and said that what was the most amazing thing was the skill of the semi driver. Apparently he'd brought the second half up to the hill and on his first attempt backed it to within a centimetre of the other half and perfectly in line. I wonder if Neil applauded that one?

Neil then showed me through his photo album while we sucked on a stubbie. How Oz is that statement? He had been bush in some amazing places. He's not so keen on the extremes of the hairy places that they visit, but there are plenty of photos with Garry out on some ledge or getting hoisted up some crazy rock formation. If they see a peak or a place that they reckon might be worth a visit then they go visit it. Plenty of bush bashing and plenty of wilderness experiences.

After dinner and a shower we... oh yeah - I had dessert for the first time in too long, and sat at a real table under a light... watched the City vs Country NSW rugby league match on tv (another curiosity). Country started running away with it literally, so I went to bed - a double bed with feather doona and above ground level. I had a flick through a book that was lying about titled "Songwriting for Dummies" but not a lot of it was relevant to me - only the writing and dummy aspects. Basically about how to write sure fire hits and make a living out of songwriting. I learnt that Dianne Warren has written innumerable hits for singers but she doesn't sing herself. I wonder if there is a book on how to not write 'hits', but 'intrinsically rewarding songs perhaps only relevant to yourself'?

Saturday 9 June : St Helena Station to Cathedral Rock N.P.

52.7km, 3h 32min, max 60.1km/hr.

In need of a rest not an uphill slog.

The fellas had been gone a while before I got up at about 7:15. I could have stayed in that bed all day, particularly thanks to another dreaming episode involving Emma Carney. Why is it that I can only remember the dreams that involve her? I have no idea what I'm dreaming about on these other nights or sometimes if I dream at all. Not that I'm complaining, because she's a total legend.

Packed up and headed down to the work site which was near the main homestead. Went in for smoko with the crew which included Russell (who was trying to convince the others that fire minding would be a good job for him today) and Wendy (who was busy cleaning the stoves before the owners returned that afternoon).

Garry is foreman for this construction. Simply put, it's a swimming pool in a shed. In more realistic terms, it's a project over which Garry has total freedom as a builder. The only rules were that it had to have a pool inside, had to look like a shed from the outside (to match the other buildings) and had to look aged inside. The owners were doing their bit for the community by employing local people and using local materials. There is an awful lot of work involved (particularly making it look aged - scorching and varnishing every bit of wood) and no blueprint. It will be a one of a kind and I'm going back to see it when it's complete. Hopefully I'll get a swim. The pool is already in and full, which was causing a few headaches. Still, as Garry said - it's more challenging than erecting kit homes.

Note the lattice design, inner roof shape and scorched wood appearance - all ideas from scratch.

I left the station at 10:45 and the first 20km flew as I had plenty to think about. That's what you want on the long days along major roads - a head full of thoughts to distract you from the rolling hills. I had 50km to ride to get to Cathedral Rock National Park. Depending on how I felt I would have a rest day the following day. One was long overdue. The big day yesterday took it's toll at about 30km. It also didn't help that I was heading towards Point lookout again - up those hills I'd been so happy to roll down on Thursday.

I had lunch at the Dingo Fence rest area. It consisted of some peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. (That's any red jam for all you Aussies.) Very American I know, but I figure I can afford to put on a bit of weight (doubt I will though) and this method worked for Elvis didn't it.

A TSR gate - something you keep an eye out for when traveling on the BNT and the Dingo Fence between Ebor and Wollomombi.

Up the road I came to the dingo fence - a 6 to 7 foot high wire mesh fence that runs north-south for a few hundred kilometres in NSW. Graziers built this fence in the 1890s to keep the dingoes in the eastern forest area and away from the grazing pastures to the west. As far as I know it worked pretty well. Australians have a liking for building very long fences to keep animals in or out. There is also a rabbit fence that is the longest fence in the world I think. It was built to keep the plague proportion rabbits down in South Australia and out of NSW and QLD. I'd like to think it also made those excessive church building South Australian folk keep their distance from sunny Queensland. There are also border fences for the Eastern states that are maintained by 'boundary runners'. If it were possible NSW graziers would build a tick fence as well running right around their state. Instead they have to trust that the tick inspection points actually work. (Don't carry a checklist with you or they might not let you cross the border.) Enough on fences.

The last 8km was into the national park. 8km is about my limit on a bike to go in and out of a location. Any more and it just adds too much to the day's and following day's km tally. If there's something really unique to see or do though, this rule is over ridden.

Did you like that little pun? I have to say that's one of my better ones. In fact that's probably in the top two or three. Nice one, and nice build up and integration.

Ahh... what else happened today? It got really windy closer to Cathedral Rock. A nice wind chill factor that added to the already crisp air at this altitude. A few other campers were here. It is a long weekend so it's to be expected, but I was happy the place wasn't crowded over.

Two very confident and social blokes came over for a chat. Callum and Sandy were their names. We chatted about the campsite, my bike, what it's like having a brother, the natural features of the area and creatures from the Jurassic era. Callum went and helped the others in his party light their fire while Sandy came back and forth between the two sites sharing bits and pieces of information with me and showing me some things from a collection which was his hobby. Callum, the elder, came back and talked about some of his mates while I established my fire from another generous camper's coals. His was a little better than mine he said after observing it for a minute or two, but I took no offense because he was only five and Sandy only four.

I was invited over for a beer by Franz and Annette and chatted to them until it grew too cold. Sydney was a hot topic. I returned to the tent and transferred photos so I would have an 'empty' camera for my early trip up to the rock in the morning.

A possum had neatly stolen a single slice of bread from my loaf. I should have applauded into the night air for he managed to get the bag open very neatly as well. Later in the night I heard a mouse wandering around very close to my heard looking for something bread-like to eat but he ended up cleaning up the sardine tin I'd left by my meagre fire. I actually heard this mouse squeaking (probably with delight) which is the first time I'd ever heard that.

I had decided at this stage that I wouldn't do a rush up and back to the rocks in the area - I'd take my time and enjoy a rest day before heading off again on Monday.

Sunday 10 June : Cathedral Rock N.P. rest day.

Here I sit at 1 564m elevation, 30deg 25' 56.9 south of the Equator, 152deg 15' 07.3 to the East of Greenwhich and 9:20am AEST. If you are looking for me, this is where I am. Exactly. Amongst the boulder formations in Cathedral Rock N.P. is probably a simpler description.

I took some splendid nature photos on the way up including one of a banksia branch that was sort of holding its hand out as if saying "give me 5". Well, that's if the flash and focus worked. I thought I'd be the only one up here for an hour or two but when climbing through the boulders I came across a photographer with a tripod looking (as I was) for a spot to take some photos that was preferably out of the breeze and in the sun.

When I turned the GPS on, I zoomed out on the ideolocator page and it had the 'home' point showing. This was a nice feeling, and it will be fun to watch it slowly get closer over the next few weeks.

When I go up to a summit I take my map, compass and GPS with (amongst other safety things) so I can get an idea of what is around me. It's nice to be able to say "That's Mt X, and that must be Lake Y" etc. It makes you feel like you're not in totally foreign country and it also gives you ideas of what you might go and see next time you're in the area. Today I sighted the tower at Point Lookout, A cliff South of Majors Point (E), Mt Comara (SE), Bitter Vine Mountain (SE), Mt Hyland (NE and where I am headed tomorrow) and Chandlers Peak (NW)... and also Round Mountain, which has a radar facility, but I didn't really need much direction or a map for that as it is about 2km away to the west and quite obvious.

Also while up on Cathedral Rock I worked on the wedding speech I have to deliver in September as best man, listened to various groups finding their way through the forest below and up the rocks, and stared out into the distance pondering stuff. The clearer mind since the bike had been fixed was nice to have back again.

After 3 hours on top I completed the walking track loop clockwise back to a very full car park. As I descended fro the rocky area I had passed a string of about 8 people each carrying a tripod and camera. I'd rather take a chocolate cake up there than a tripod.

By 3:30pm I had the place to myself and had dinner and wood organised for the evening. David Waugh had listed a pack of cards as an essential item for the trip but I had not taken a pack. I bought a pair (cheaper than a single pack) and left the red pack at St Helena Station for anyone who was bored. I decided it was time to play some solitaire. Played a few unsuccessful games or regular and a variation of Kondike solitaire and then thought I'd give Clock a go. I won this on the first deal which is simply unbelievable. I stopped playing immediately and put the cards away. Once I have won every type of solitaire I know, I'll toss the cards to someone who'd like them.

Stewart and Lisa (another chalkie) showed up late in the afternoon and set up camp. I was greeted with two beers as I finished cooking dinner and we had a chat which we continued a bit later on after I'd cleaned up. I had a bit of Stewart's stew (age old recipe and that's why I spelt his name that way) as a second course and he battled to keep the fire somewhat aflame. This is a constant battle with the processed wood ends that the bins are stocked with in most northern national parks. You need an inferno to keep that stuff alight, and Stewart had impressive fanning technique, but it was simply not enough.

A very still cold seeped through the area which prompted a return to the tent and the end of a very complete rest day. A mouse or 4 had gotten into my remaining bread while I was socialising and rendered it inedible unless you were crumbing a steak.

Notes:

Jase - You know what that 'escape hatch' is for.

Keffo and Nic - That maglight has an amazing beam... so I 're found' when I changed the batteries. Can't believe the others lasted that long.

Angelique - Did you find out about the ingredients of Maccas' thickshakes?

Dennis - Get me an Emma Carney life size poster for Christmas. Her phone number would be better, but as I recall she lives in Melbourne and after this trip I don't think I could afford the long distance calls.

Shauno - is your speech finished yet?