Most of these things take only a minute or so to address each. Unless of course you happen to discover a problem with one or more of them.  If you strike and fix a problem early in the list, remember to continue through the rest of the list.

Although this may seem obvious - do these BEFORE you load your bike up!

DAILY

1. Brakes - Check tension and response for both.
   

2. Odometer - Check the magnet is on the spoke and it registers on the terminal.
   

3. Tyre inflation - Higher 4 harder, lower 4 softer terrain.
   

4. Steering - Should be firm and have a smooth action.
   

5. General security - Give the bike a really good shake. Nothing should fall off or sound unusual. (This isn't mentioned in repair manuals, but it sure is a handy strategy.)
   

6. Water supply - For you, not the bike - base your agenda around H2O availability.
   

7. If anticipating bad weather --> check the items in the next two sections also.
   

2-3 DAYS

1. Lube - Chain, shockies and cables should be slick, not dripping or dry.
   

2. Major nuts and bolts - Check existence, tension and cleanliness.
   

3. Cable tension - Refer to safety specifications. Taut is good, slack is bad.
   

4. Rack wear - There will be some. Look from every angle. Shake it a bit. Run your hand over all of the surfaces and feel for wear.
   

5. Clean derailleur - Scrape away accumulated gunk with a tyre lever while cranking the chain through slowly. Wipe down with a cloth before relubing. Also clean and dry between the rings on the rear cluster.
   

WEEKLY

1. Rim wear - Closely inspect for grooves on rim and on tyre wall.
   

2. Spokes - Check tension, origin, insertion and straightness.
   

3. Rim truth - Tighten alternative origin-opposite spokes to pull a bulge back in. (This version sounds so simple! See Regular Trek Problems !)
   

4. Tyre wear - Examine wear. Check nodules for cracks and splits.
   

5. Cog teeth - Teeth should be squarish at the periphery. Curved = worn = skipping.
   

6. Wheel sounds - Listen to the hubs and rims/brakes as you spin the wheels forwards and then backwards.
   

7. General alignments - Check the pedal cranks, steering, seat pole, hand controls and shockies are lined up how they should be.
   

8. Frame condition - Check for any cracks at weld points and where bolts are submerged in the frame.
   

WHEN POSSIBLE

1. Regrease hubs - A special job that requires good mechanical knowledge and procedure. Your bike may have sealed hubs --> leave these alone! (Yes, you should read the owner's manual shouldn't you.) Not overly difficult but easy to stuff up - particularly the reassembly and tension of the hub casing.
   

2. Clean derailleurs - dismantle both and rinse out all the parts in a petroleum bath.
   

3. Drop in at a mechanic to get an assessment done. Four eyes are better than two.
   

CRUNCH TIME

(It's too late to prevent, it's time to cure.)

1. Establish what isn't broken and what isn't fixable? This will give you an idea of how the bike/part is going to cope with stress structurally.
   

2. Decide what you can do about what is damaged/broken/now absent.
   

3. Devise several alternatives for each repair task. Think them through first. Be resourceful with what you have and how it can be used.
   

4. Start the fixing process, but take it slowly and thoughtfully so you can pre-empt problems/dead ends.  Even when the insects are biting.
   

5. See Some Trek Problems for more details.
   

AFTER VISITING A BIKE SHOP

Assume they forgot to tighten and test everything they touched on your bike. This way when something comes loose and you find yourself in an unfavourable scenario at high speed you'll know it's all your fault. It's not that you don't trust them - it's simply that you are responsible for yourself.

Remember to look after your rack.

Or at least be able to repair it. (This is the worst side 1/2 way into the trip).  The rack ended up surviving the entire trip.