Happy Jacks Pondage to Woods Reserve.

Monday 16 April : Happy Jacks Pondage to Providence Portal

40.7km, 5h 18 min, max 39.

An epic with proportions I won't forget.

As I lay here in the cool shade on the following afternoon recounting the events which made up this day, I can't help but look back in awe. The day had more than most other days I've had on the trail in many ways.

This is Monday's story :

8:15 to 9:15. Rhythm and an Encounter. Rode at a very gentle cadence up the road that would lead me to Happy Jacks Plain. An icy time to be cycling in the shadows of mountains that form the gorge which provides Happy Jacks Creek with a path. With an increasing amount of rewarding sunlight the road was all mine.

Around the corner on the downward slope to the plain I was amused to encounter two males pushing (oh the glee!) their loaded bikes up the hill. It was Bob and Luke from Leura. They were on the road for a four day cycle around the area to the west of lake Eucumbene. Bob has been holidaying in the Snowy area for 30 years, with cycling about becoming his preferred transportation. We talked for about 25 minutes examining maps and the like (interrupted twice by 4WDs), before swapping addresses. I found it fantastic to finally run into similar folk on two wheels. Perhaps this was my Sunday's premonition?

9:40 to 11:15. Barren but Beautiful. Rode comfortably across Happy Jacks Plain in it's alpine barrenness and came to the Grey Mare Trail - a part on an alpine walking train in these parts. (The BNT uses few of these paths so that walkers and horse/bike riders don't have to deal with each others' negatives.) I'd contemplated sticking to the road for an extra few kilometres to avoid this if it was going to cause trouble, but upon surveying the terrain I decided to travel it.

I have grown very fond of the snow grass in these parts. It's frailty yet toughness, softness yet lumpiness, it's confirming to the traveller that they are indeed in the alpine. The Grey Mare Trail is a track through and of snow grass - and although the going was slower I was immensely happy. The feeling of the Mt Skene vicinity under tyre and the impossibility of the previous day's Bradney's Hut turn were met on middle ground here. Many photos presented themselves. It is of a certain hue to which these areas permit - bland and lifeless in a way, but subtle and stunning in another. At the ridge that the trail peaked at there were breathtaking views of the central part of Lake Eucumbene and to the east. I paused to lunch and gaze.

11:15 to 1:30. Worry and Wisdom. I scaled 5 rungs up one of the power poles to get a photo after lunch. I really was high enough as it was, but felt the tree staining the front of my view could be minimised in a photo with a little extra elevation. (I can see my closest shaking their heads.) Unfortunately I should have climbed the pole to the right to avoid getting the power line in the shot as well.

Onto the bike and down the track. I met a very steep down slope. Behind me was a steep up slope. To the left and north was the road which swung around to rejoin this track a few hundred metres over the way. It was there somewhere. I bush-bashed over logs, past prickly shrubs, around trees and through chunks of snow grass quite forcibly. 250 metres later I came across the road - 100 metres earlier than anticipated to my relief. Thinking of the hazards I'd just risked, I rode on.

20 minutes later a sensation of 'not feeling right' swept over me slowly. I considered whether a snake had taken the liberty of nipping me whilst I ravaged through the scrub earlier. Checking for bites was fruitless as my legs were covered in scratches and thorn pricks. There was no way of telling except time. I sorted a plan of action as I continued the mostly down slope towards the lake. The onset of bite like symptoms did not continue but the sensation lingered.

1:30 to 4:40. Bloody Hell. I reached the crossroads where I was to turn for what I predicted would be an interesting part of the entire trail. A GPS reading paired with my topo map confirmed this. (I was now on the Canberra Special map with the nation's capital in sight.) The track was a little fainter than I liked.

While worried that I had been bitten by a snake, I was also aware of my general feeling of 'out-of-sortness' I had been getting at 25km over the last week. I was at 30km, but at the same time I was facing a diminishing track. Not good news for either scenario of feeling.

From this point on to the Snowy Mountains Highway (about 7km) there had been some changes to the trail. My 1:250 000 Canberra topo, although pretty, was like a rubber mallet to a blacksmith. The 1:25 000 topo provided in the BNT updates was better, but only showed a proposed path and not an actual track (which did not make it 10 times better). After a few kilometres, some boggy creek crossings and some more snake worry the path ended at a small flat and suspicious plain in a low valley.

The wise man did speak to me and said " Stay on the path" What becomes of thee decisions though, when the path ceases oh Wise One? I became a surveyor momentarily, but without the fancy tripod. I backtracked 100 metres to a track I'd crossed and followed it down-plain towards where the lake's edge should meet it. The lake was down (71% capacity) and there was a bare edge that could be transversed should the need arise. This track also dissolved, but into the bush. There were animal tracks so I followed them for a few minutes. These too led nowhere and so I decided that crossing the 200 metre plain here would be as good a place as any. I set out with bike in tow.

I was not lost for I knew exactly where I was, which way to go, what I was looking for and where it should roughly be. I was presented with the following barriers :

a) Thick chunky grass tufts about 50 x 50cm and hovering above the ground at about a 50cm level.

b) 'Creeks' 1m across and deep that cut neatly through the grass and which were almost invisible until you were upon or in them.

c) Wooded slopes with huge logs, prickly shrubs and branches impeding all but the most clever of wombats.

d) Tracks and paths that kept ending or dissolving.

The 4km that contained these elements took 2 hours to transverse. I did not intend to camp anywhere here as I didn't want to deal with it in the morning as well. Walking through 'a)' was hard enough - lugging the loaded bike was harder. Jumping the 'b)'s were challenging, launching a bike across was not as successful on 2/3 occasions (results on those 2 = broken spoke, warped rear rim, a complete dunking of gear, intermittent French). Negotiating the 'c)' beyond the swampy plain was patience testing, but if you thought like a wombat it's better than a) and b). Multiple episodes of 'd)' closer to my goal tested the patience, reserve, bush skills, navigation ability and terrain deducing capabilities of me to the last straw. I did stop to appreciate the wombat caves that were prominent while controlling myself. Finally I popped out on top of a knob where the 'trail' was supposed to be and nearly walked straight across the track which had reappeared.

Through all of this I found out the following :

1. A snake hadn't bitten me earlier on, or through the swamp and bush bashing that ended the day.

2. You can know exactly where you are, and have nearly no way out of that place, yet there will always be a way.

3. Animal (in this case wombat) tracks always lead somewhere important, and are often not spaced far from each other - just hope that important place is the same for both of you.

4. Always keeping an eye on your bearing pays it's rewards - for I did not travel in circles.

5. Your eyes start to read the terrain more accurately after about half an hour in it.

6. My fishing bait and hook/sinker kit may never be seen by another human being, and neither will my container of spare stove fuel.

7. Swearing when in situations like the ones described doesn't help you get out, but it provides a short term pressure exhaust valve for emotion and frustration.

8. You will always make it through if you think.

4:40 to 6:30. Routine and Relaxation. I forded the Eucumbene River, followed the road towards the sound of highway traffic, met some too-relaxed travelers with whom I quickly shared my stories, surveyed my bent rim with clearer thought and encountered a mob of horse riders who pointed me towards a glorious camp site.

The familiarity that is preparing a campsite for the night was very soothing. Dinner was accompanied by the drifting music of Crowded House and Neil Finn from a neighbouring family of campers.

P.S. I wrote this tomorrow after returning from Providence Portal to ring Steven and get food, and transferring photos from the day to the iBook. I could not have written it yesterday for sheer exhaustion and an unjust perspective. I knew I would look back on the day as a whole with fondness, for it held so much - and be able to laugh and smile as I recounted it. I did.

Tuesday 17 April : Providence Portal Vicinity

14km, 1h 05min, max 60km/hr.

Surprising one's self.

At midnight I had a flash of the subconscious that provided this. It's titled 'Perspective' and I am not sure of it's genre :

Sometimes I'm a speck surrounded by sea.

Sometimes I'm just a speck.

And sometimes - I'm just me.

It really sums up an element of this trip.

A change in mentality highlighted the waking hours of the night. Usually the foremost thought is of where I'm going in a few hours time. Early this morning it was purely 'fix wheel'.

Ate early as usual - when I can sort of recognise where the spoon is in the dimness of the tent. Rose from the sleeping bag when sunbeams crept over the ridge to the east and through the little window in my tent. Got to work ASAP on the rim fix. Another 0* morning and with a bit of moisture too, so got a photo of the frost on my shoes and tyre. Expected bike repairs to take about 3 hours.

Couldn't replace the spoke I broke as I didn't have the necessary tools. It had to be the most difficult spoke position to get to. Initiated myself into the art and science of rim truing. Stripped wheel, loosened all spokes, marked in pencil the most warped areas, gave a body weight sort of straighten, then put wheel back on the bike with a bit of strapping tape strung across the rack to use as a guide. Tightened and loosened spokes for about an hour and slowly and surely it came good. Got rid of 95% of a 2cm right warp and 1cm left warp. I believe I have gained amateur bike mechanic immortality with this result. I was totally stoked that I would once again be able to utilise my rear brakes.

Reassembled bike wheel and adjusted the brakes even more and also replaced the rear brake pads - the 'wear replace' line was just visible... on one.

Got organised and then rode the 6km into Providence Portal locality (weird sort of place name). Talked to Sven and Sandy at the caravan park about my bike, roads in the area and their selection of pies. Had a steak cheese and bacon one then rang Steven... Hooray - through at last! Will attempt a rendezvous north of Canberra with him. Returned to camp and wrote up yesterday's epic journal entry. Just plain crazy.

The remainder of the day faded into relaxation and then a total chill out. Had dinner fairly early and then sat by a well wooded fire for ages staring at it and at the stars - something I have not done enough of. The previous record on this trip was about 10min for this sort of thing.

Wednesday 18 April : Providence Portal to Adaminaby

24.7km, 1h 26min, max 68km/hr.

A short and sweet verse.

0* is what greeted me

the day I rode to Adaminaby.

The roads were flat the roads were down -

in less than 2 hours I'd hit town.

While pitching the tent (which I'd just pulled apart)

I looked to my bike with a broken heart.

"That spoke that's broke is now the job for the day

and I'd better get it done as the skies are due to grey."

But first to the 5 Star Mart where it's all for sale.

A pie, some groceries, then some postcards to mail.

Strolled to the butcher - some sausages the treat

(on the BNT you go days without meat).

The BP was the place that catered for my bike,

the mechanic, his spanners and advice I really liked.

No hope for the spoke though - the tool was too specific

so I headed back to the c.p. and the shower was terrific!

Lars the Swede is a legendary bloke -

provides us with a kitchen and we're all stoked!

Microwave, 2 BBQs, kettle, deep fryer and utensils -

some c.p. owners I know ought to get their pads and pencils.

Ate my snags between some buns topped with ham and cheese

then a visit to the Snowy Goose - TV, blokes and beer did please.

To my trusty tent I go with a shrapnel take away

and continued with some typing I'd started earlier today.

Got heaps done but again it was late

but it rounded off a day that was just plain great.

Thursday 19 April : Adaminaby to Mt Clear Camp Grounds

40.5km, 3h 05min, max 62km/hr.

Cranky for some reason.

•Powered site was $10 - a good deal compared to what I've paid elsewhere and the facilities available •packed up stuff as usual • posted postcards (DargoPS, Marcia, P&S Jones) • got Canberra topo (1:1ht) from BP and some local advice • 6 bread rolls from 5 Star Mart • rang NPWS and bloke gave me the address so I could get a permit before I camped... uh that address is 80km away • realised wheel was wobbly - bearings not tightened enough after my mechanical mix up yesterday • ummed and ahhed • stopped at Ampol on way out of town to get them tightened - declined a repack of the bearing for some odd reason • got on the road in a bright sun and sky with the wind behind me on a bitumen road that was tending downhill • very cranky • stopped at 13km for a 3 bun vegemite and honey lunch by the side of the road • met 58y.o. Swiss touring cyclist ( broken English, " _______ - very beautiful", 3mts in SE Asia then to NZ cycling, gave me his Canberra directory map, going to Cooma then along south east coast road around to Melbourne) • crossed the NSW - ACT border • Brayshaws Hut stop after Shannons Flat about 4km from camp area • Tin Plate School ruins across the road • cranky mood now faded out and singing to myself as the clouds rolled in and it started to spit erratically • went to horse pound camp area as too many red vans at other site • got fire going and cooked a homey but mushy dinner and ate by the fire • there you go - that was the day in a nutshell.

Friday 20 April : Mt Clear Camp Grounds

Did not get on bike. A day off.

RHR = 41 bpm.

Damp wood.

Thunderboxes.

Saturday 21 April : Mt Clear Camp Grounds to Cuppacumalong Shed

54.3km, 3h 46min, max 75km/hr.

A day that kept warming.

Well I didn't realise I went that fast down that hill near the Orroral Valley Road turn. Really blew that previous record of 68km/hr away. Didn't feel at all wobbly in the wheel and had my jacket flapping like a trapped gull.

A descent from the misty and non-QLD temperature area started at 8am. Actually had an 6km climb to start, during which I rode my 1000th kilometre for the trip. A significant milestone/kilometrestone for me, the bike and the trip. I forgot to keep an eye on the odometer - I've been making a habit of leaving it on the average setting so I don't peek a look at how far I've gone/got to go. So, no photo and no recollection of the exact place this event unfolded. That is now reserved for the 2000km mark. The thought that the trip was 1/3 done is a little depressing. I am right on schedule though with the first 1000 in 29 days.

Cold and wet but not miserable. The BNT actually went to the east of the range on my right but it included 13 river crossings and it was not 'shoes on and off' sort of weather. Turning the legs over on the hill kept me warm and got the body heat up for the long descent. The lookout I stopped at near Gudgenby Station was partly obscured by low cloud and mist. This made checking out Yankee Hat a little difficult. Bitumen from 15km on. Mobile came into range 35km from Canberra as I rolled into the Namagi Visitors Centre. Rang Steven to say g'day and the listened to a tidy collection of voice mail.

Rolled on into Tharwa after browsing the exhibits and being waived a camping fee for the previous two nights at the N.V.C. An unusual little 'General Merchant' store - antiques, post office, bottle shop, store, collectables, and an unusually wide assortment of ice cream blocks. Rain started to fall. It was time to get wet, but I was glad my day had broken into two digits for temperature for about an hour.

Cruised back to Cuppacumalong, which strangely has the largest write up of any place in the guidebooks - thanks to some children's poetry. About 2pm. Camp was near the shearers' quarters so I felt a little at home with the smell of lanolin and sheep dung. Both gates were locked so I wandered about deducing the logic of the situation to the background sounds of two barking dogs (one uneasy and the other partially interested). Put gear and bike over fence and set the tent between the fireplace and dunny, up against the fence. Out of the way as I had a feeling something wasn't right. The rain was really setting in for the afternoon. Made a fire to boil water and cook the damper which I'd made yesterday but had been unable to cook due to the dampness and an uncooperative fire and wind. This fire was stubborn too ...but then I set my red dog onto it. It went 'woof' and the fire worked just fine. Packed up for bed at about 3:30pm. Slept a bit.

Was woken by vehicles and voices and was told by a bloke that I was in the wrong place. Said I could stay put considering the weather but both he and I will ensure a BNT update is more specific about the area to camp in. He didn't want the sheep disturbed ...but I didn't reveal my background.

Was invited over to the quarters (where life had established itself) as I was heating a baked bean and rice dinner on my little stove. The warmth of the offer and the building was inviting. Finished dinner then rang Shauno/Jase/Fe on the mobile. They were on their way to netball. That's right - it's Saturday! Texted a few friends also.

Ray and Pat (brothers) greeted me with an easy handshake which they balanced with a tallie. These blokes were 'thumbs up' from the very start. Was introduced to the hoard of kids - Carly (maid), Angela (Doc), Nick (League), Simon (curls) and Tarin (crumpets). A very warm and welcoming troop - the most of anyone I've met on the trail to date. They get frequent references from passers through. Spicy sausages, some sugarless tea (it's gotta be somewhere) diverse conversation ranging from the Woolworths slogan and their seafood to the Hervey Bay cops and bum gravel. Had some beers into the developing eve and spurred on the dreams of Angela with some elementary advice on 'how to become your vision'. The barking dogs joined us later on - Lucky (to be alive) and Misty ( a whippet looking kelpie). They were a bit hyperactive in the warmth. A night I won't forget.

As returned to my tent I looked to the north an noted the urban glow of the sky above Canberra.

Sunday 22nd April: Cuppacumalong Shed to Woods Reserve (detour)

28.8km, 2h 06 min, max 62km/hr.

Rolled up the tent wet again. It's something I don't like doing as it's not good for the tent and it makes setting camp in the evening a bit delayed waiting for the moisture inside to disperse. Had a cup of coffee, no sugar, and a crumpet with Ray and the kids before rolling 200m across the road to the model plane airfield.

There I talked to John about the many fascinating aspects of the hobby he has had for the last 6 months. A comparative novice as I am to MTBs and touring! There were about 5 other guys there tuning then flying their models.

Flying these things takes a heap of eye-hand coordination and knowledge of the craft, conditions and landscape. It's also good to know some evasive tactics to avoid getting zeroed in on by the 2 resident eagles who get miffed with the invasion of their air space. A range of models of different design, construction and purpose were there. Most of these models run on a mix of three fuels. Although electric models are about, they have a lesser flying time and heat up rapidly - two factors which interfere with the fun. I would say that they would be marginally quieter than the mammoth-bee producing drone that the fuel versions create.

Competitions are regular and offer a variety of formats including speed, flying time, aerobatics, military style formations, target drop bombing and precision flying. Fun for the whole family. A really 'full on' sort of hobby that could easily become time engrossing.

A short distance up the road I found The Art Shed -Pottery and Gallery. ("What?" I hear some friends say " He stopped in voluntarily at a pottery shed?" Yes thank you very much. It was rather pleasant.) Had a browse but my travel method restricts me from purchases on occasions such as these. This bloke's been potting for 30 years and on display he has a very creative and appealing collection of wares. I saw a few ideal gifts and pieces that I would buy for ...me and others I know. Business was slow he said, which may be a by product of his Tharwa location, but country towns need this sort of enterprise. A bit Catch 22.

While continuing my ride along the road to the Gibraltar area I was joined by another cyclist on narrower wheels and without insane additional weight. His name was also Michael, and well - he was just out for an easy Sunday ride. We talked and rode for about 5k which seemed to be over in a flash.

I stopped at the turn to Corin for a quick lunch break, which was 6km from my destination for the day. A deliberately short day of about 35km, and after scanning the map found this last section was mostly uphill.

Finished setting up camp to the threat of a downpour via notification by several serious rounds of thunder from the ridge to the south west. Really cracked/scraped my shin against a pedal unloading the bike and have a nice graze to show interested people. The area I'd chosen near the far end closer to the river was sort of odd with bare trees and a carpet of damp leaves underfoot. Failed several times to get the fire started due to the dampness of all carbon containing material in the area, so called my red dog again.

While my damper was cooking and I was reading(!) the April Canberra Events booklet I'd collected from The Art Shed, an ACT Forest fella came along. Paid my $4.40 for the honour of pitching my tent, but got in exchange good local advice, a discussion on MTB riding, a reference to a bike shop in Woden and... a key to the toilet block for a hot shower! All of this was well worth the $$ I'd handed over. He also recommended a camp that would probably go unchecked in his area for the following night if I made it far enough.

Rode the steepening road to the Gibraltar Falls area with my camera slung around my neck bouncing around my knees. The bike feels really airy and unstable without the load. Took two photos of the falls (all that was available on the camera) and then with a glazed expression just observed the falls for about ten minutes. See Trail History (NSW). Although much smaller than Steavenson falls near Marysville, they were much more intriguing. Flew back down the hill but didn't gather the momentum I usually do.

A young Alaskan couple showed up as I was refueling my coals for the evening meal. Erica is in Oz to complete her masters in environmental science (at "school"), and her boyfriend didn't state his name or intentions, so he remained a fairly anonymous participant in the conversations. We were all appreciating the fine weather - them especially as most of their Alaskan days make a raincoat an all too regular fashion item.

Kookid soopa meel witch was skrumpschiss and then hedid fore thuh showirs. Washid rydin clowths in bacing soada two cleen them. Probiblee woahn't dri overnite. Showir waz nyce butt as surgee as a polevaulter and striktly three minits. Ey thing eym the onle won with a cee sew ey feel spechul kompaired too thee otherr kampirs.

(Man that was hard) Transferred photos onto iBook and edited web site until there was 30min left on battery. A slice or two of damper laced with condensed milk for dessert then to sleep.

Notes:

7C - That science CD-ROM you've been using... I've been deep space tracking at Tidbinbilla!

Maps - As Confucius or Paul Kelly would say (using slightly different adjectives : "Every _____ map folds differently". So is the experience on most mornings in my abode as I plan out the day's pedal. Only the guidebooks remain consistent in opening right to left.

2FJ - I've started work on a possible Harmonies item for our class. It is a melody of sorts so practice your singing. I started it at about 5am on Tuesday morning... it just popped into my head!

Old Folk - How did you folk handle that rap from last week? I have a suspicion you had the caps on backward.

Dad / David / Mac - Sheep are just a totally different thing down here, as you are probably well aware. They just look like toys in their little paddocks with 9 strand fences with posts 2m apart. The iron standard and wire industry must make a killing down here! The sheds are mostly one or two stands - they have so few sheep they might as well hand shear them in the paddock.

QLD - Welcome to the Sunshine State : ACT - Welcome to the Red Tape State. Shortly I'm going to ask if I need a permit to breathe and eat while in this territory.

Why, when you get yourself a good one on the shins, do you feel really nauseous?