Week Four (SNSW I ALBUM LINK)
Tom Groggin to Happy Jacks Pondage
Monday 9 April : Tom Groggin Tk to Thredbo
49.5km, 5h 28min, max 66km/hr.
50 is not the same as 36.
Patchy rain was falling all night,
through snow gums' towering heights.
Early I woke.
To no one I spoke.
While awaiting dawn's new light.
~~~
To Thredbo I was to go.
Hopefully absent of snow.
About 36k,
to pedal today,
so Kosciuszko I may know.
~~~
A glorious morning outside.
No sun - still great for a ride.
By 7:30 I'd packed,
controlling my snacks.
An early start would not be denied.
~~~
There's plenty of hills to be had,
up Tom Groggins Track - I was glad :
I came down,
wearing no frown.
So for me he wasn't half bad.
~~~
Victoria behind me, a tear -
to her I'd grown quite near.
Crossing the Murray,
for me was no hurry.
I'll return in a future year.
~~~
~~~
The Alpine Way is quite steep,
from Tom Groggin's pastures of sheep.
16k up.
Pushing too much.
Not a single motorists' beep.
~~~
'Stop/go man' called me slow
Ironic, but he should know :
bikes aren't quick.
(neither's my wit)
Waved at him, went with the flow.
~~~
I had 4 beers this evening -
to my body's health - I was grieving.
In hostel I stayed.
Mobile bill will dismay.
At least I avoided 4 star thieving.
~~~
Limericks are not supposed to be,
multi verse travel poetry.
But I've no rules...
so bear with me fools!
And I'll be amused you'll see.
Tuesday 10th April : Thredbo back to the banks of the Murray
26.1km, 1hr 19min, max 66km/hr.
Can't go higher or faster.
I have never slept in a room with a chorus of snorers. Is this what youth hostels have to offer? The fourth fellow in the room (Rudy) packed up and went and slept out in the common room at about 11:30. Should have gone with him. A nice big bloke called Tim and a Welsh bloke named Richard were the culprits. Couldn't meet nicer blokes, but they could snore like an out of tune brass section. It was funny that if I coughed it interrupted the pattern... just toying with the subconscious there at about 4:25am.
I got up at 5:45 for breakfast and it was nice. Hostels are a good sort of arrangement and the Thredbo one is a very nice clean and friendly place. I was a hostel virgin so I learned a lot. Like you take off your shoes. And you can't use sleeping bags. And the books and games are locked up so you can't use them...? (So I read a lot of brochures!)
Left at about 8:30 to start the climb up the big mountain. I was trying to keep this detour to $50 (I was already at $48) so I walked the entire way up to the summit. Most... all the people who went up got a ride up the steepest part on the chair lift... but I wasn't paying $20 for such a small outcome. Anyway - I'm riding all the way to Brisbane, what's an extra hour of walking?
It's a long way to the top if you want to bear the cold. Why didn't AC/DC use that line? The summit was fantastic. I'm so glad I had the time and inclination to do this and that the day turned out to be just perfect. See in Trail History (NSW). Took a picture for a bloke with a German-ish sounding accent and got a bloke called Mal to take mine. Mal ran up. Legend or just crazy I don't know. I was extremely jealous and I told him so. Me and my irritable Achilles. Mal is a security guard at parliament house so I'll drop by to say hello on my way through. I think he said he was originally from Brisbane. He'd just run the Canberra marathon recently and was on a bit of a holiday. He was pretty happy to get to the top - kissed that trig point. Also listened to a few strangers talk about bush walking and places to go. Mt Barney was the flavour and so I was happy to hear Queensland talked about. Meanwhile I was marking the summit onto my GPS to check it was actually 2 228m high (it was - I get skeptical) working out what peaks I could see in the distance and doing mapping stuff.
The entire time I was around the summit vicinity (about 90 min) there was this helicopter ferrying these big buckets (of what I presumed was water but may have been gravel) back and forth to this point where there was a road about 900m from the top. It must be the most efficient way to do it but it still must cost a fortune. Helicopters aren't cheap to fly!
I got chatting on the way down with a lady who does a heap of bush walking in Victoria. Shamefully I didn't get her name. We talked about safety and different areas in Victoria. Discussed the people we passed when they were out of earshot. It's crazy what people wear - you'd think it was 26 degrees on top of the mountain. It's no wonder people get themselves into heaps of trouble and need to be rescued/get medical attention. We also discussed the hang glider (?) that went missing recently. She and her husband were involved in the search but it had proven to be strangely unsuccessful. An interesting story - that.
Photo : Yep, it's steep down that slope. Looking south over Thredbo Village from where the chair lift ends and the walk to Kosciuszko starts.
Went to the bakery (only the second one since Healesville) and got some buns and a rock cake sort of biscuit. Bakeries are just the best thing. Also got some food from the supermarket before I set of for the big downhill to Tom Groggin camping area.
I was starting from about 1400m today and finishing at about 350m. Yesterday it took me nearly 4 hours to get to Thredbo. As you can see from the above figures, I absolutely flew down hill. I didn't want to spend a lot of time on the bike after the big walk which was good. This basically meant that what I missed seeing on the way up because I was grunting and staring at the bitumen or pushing, I missed on the way down because I was whizzing past at 50km/hr+ or looking ahead for oncoming vehicles. How ironic. It was way fun though. The Thredbo bike shop heads out to Tom Groggin with MTB tours but they get a lift back (cheaters). I caught some gravel on one corner doing 40km/hr and that was a bit crazy. My first thought was that my EPIRB was not on my person. My second thought was to forget about the EPIRB and just steer and brake the damn bike before I made like cheese and grated myself. On every section that I'd pushed up yesterday I had a bigger than usual smile.
Looked around for a camping spot for a while then found one a little upstream. There were a few others camped there including a bloke from near Healesville called Frank. Frank has spent three of his last 7 months camping. Had just been over to NZ for a bit of it, was interested in the bike touring with his family, and was going to start studying education next year. A really nice bloke and we had a lengthy chat while he kicked a soccer ball with his young son. (I was attempting damper again while talking.)
Within half an hour about 3 other vehicles showed up to camp for the night. It was like a mini population explosion. Met a group who were on their way back to Adelaide (Marie, Sue and Tony) and got invited over to share stories and share a beer. Two light beers later and I was exhausted. I think the walk really caught up with me as well as my decreasing tolerance of alcohol. (Damper turned out good though... because I ignored it I think!) I had been invited to head over to Frank's fire but was too tired and getting quite cold. An opportunity missed that I've regretted.
I had time to transfer a heap of photos from the camera, jot some journal notes and plan the next two days before crashing to sleep.
Wednesday 11th April : Tom Groggin to Old Geehi Hut
27.7km, 2h 3min, max 65km/hr.
A different but great day.
At 5am tried to fish again but without success. All I got was back into bed for another half hour sleep after starting to get too cold. Did a bike gear, chain and brake clean and tightened things up. My clatter probably woke everyone in the camp but they should have been up by 8am.
Frank came over for a farewell chat and we talked about stuff. Am actually remembering to hand out my web site address to people which is something I have been prone to forgetting. Chatted with Tony, Sue and Marie as well before I was left to continue packing. Intended to get away at 10am and left at 9:50. It was getting overcast and I didn't feel like getting wet.
A fairly easy ride on the bitumen Alpine Way to Keeble Hut (a stone hut!). A few other campers had there gear there but no one about strangely. Ate some lunch (a saved bacon and cheese roll from bakery!) and then decided I'd set up camp in the hut.
A car pulled up and within moments I heard this gruff little voice growl "Get out!" I continued with my sorting and then two little blokes wandered in and asked what I was doing. We got chatting and they then invited me over to meet the rest of the family. They were a little protective of the hut as they'd spent a few good hours tidying it up and exploring it. (A highly rated hut in the guidebooks) Met Shorty, Sue, Steve and Shaz and the 3 kids. They're from a 'T' town (that I forget the exact name of... there's so many in these parts) on the Murray River to the north and slightly west of Melbourne. They were heading to have a look at the next hut along this river and so I accepted the ride.
A great preview it was to have. The hut ahead (Old Geehi Hut - stone too!) was slightly more appealing and it was on the other side of an icy river that I'd have to cross. Had a look around. It also had some mod cons unseen in other huts - a sink, white painted board ceiling, toilet roll, old candle, shovel, a screen door and bunk beds with springs. Insane luxury!
After returning and a cup of tea and chat with the (very generous) folk, I decided to move on to the next hut. When the little blokes realised I was going they were a little unhappy (even though they now knew I was a teacher) and started firing all sorts of questions about my bike etc. at me. Here is a part of the final conversation we had:
C: We thought you were gonna wreck our hut and steal stuff.
Me: Really? I haven't got room to take anything extra.
C: Yeah but we thought you were a stranger.
Me: But I am a stranger.
C: No you're not - we know your name.
Me: But I'm still a stranger.
C: No, once you know someone's name they're not a stranger any more.
Me: I guess so.
The wisdom of kids. How enlightening. I'll make sure I get everyone's name from now on.
Rain was threatening and started as I left for the icy river. Unpacked the panniers and was starting to cross when a 4WD pulled up and offered to take the panniers and shoes over for me. Immediate "yes" and so I was saved a second trip. Got to the hut and dried off as much as I could and set up camp. Was not to be kept awake by mice so pitched the tent on the tarp which lay over the spring bed. Weird but peace of mind. Jacinta (one of the kids) came by and returned my map which I'd left sitting in the rain back at Keeble Hut. Thanked her profusely for I would have been cursing myself when I realised.
See the man of style;
He has found a home.
Avoiding mice - a trial;
But out the back's a throne.
Cooked dinner early and then studied maps until darkness fell. Made a point of hanging every food item off the useful chains with hooks hanging from the roof. I'll beat those mice yet. Dinner was rice and peas/corn with taco flavouring. (See Fe - I used it!)
Thursday 12th April : Old Geehi Hut to Khancoban
26.4km, 2h 25min, max 50km/hr.
A long night ahead.
Heard a 4WD approaching so thought I'd emerge from the cocoon. It was cold. A bloke strolled in and was shocked to see me getting breakfast ready. Brett was on holiday with his family and he'd decided to take the kids for a ride to let mum sleep in. I told him about the visitors books that (nearly) every hut has and he signed it. Turns out he's from Brisbane (Karana Downs) and is a builder. He had a look at the structure and then left.
As I was packing my last things to the bike about an hour and a bit later he walks in again with the bloke who carried my panniers. We had a bit more of a chat. His few kids from the morning had multiplied to 7 which I thought was astonishing(!).
Got on the road and resisted pushing up the first steep hill. A mental test. The gals of a wind had subsided and the sun was out. Ran into a couple who were looking lost strolling down the track about 500m further on. He'd done some bike touring and had a heap of questions and some interesting points on motivation for long trips. He also said that he'd ridden through the mountains on the road and that "the Australian mountains weren't high but they were very steep". I agreed whole heartedly and then continued up a steep mountain. Had to do a bit of pushing but he had said to check out the mountain range back towards Mt Kosciuszko once I got a little higher. Snow. No wonder it was so cold this morning.
A long winding downhill on a decent road to Major Clews Hut. Stopped in to have a look at his handiwork. A nice spot he'd chosen and a variety of trees planted. Good work Major! A monument to the east of the hut was a dedication to him. This hut was painted inside... green.
Photo : Major Clews Hut. The guidebook recommends avoiding
staying in the hut unless in a bad state... infested with rats.
Rode into Khancoban at about 12 and visited the food store. Got a rousing chorus from some people - Shorty, Steve and co. They'd packed up in the morning as well as a troop of campers arrived where they were and informed them that 40 Czechoslovakians (you spell it) were gathering there for a reunion of sorts. I'd have moved on too! They had plans to go to the caves at Yarragobilly to the north about 50km. A place I'd earmarked as a possibility on my map.
Dropped in at the national parks office to get some local advice on the roads. Some handy advice and most of what's ahead to Canberra looks good. About 12 days to there roughly, with a small food update at Providence Portal on day 5.
Picked up my package that Ang left at the Alpine Inn for me and got a room. At about organising what food I had and needed as the shops would be shut tomorrow. Sent out a quick email to family to let them know they could contact me after unscrewing a plank in the room to get at the phone connection. Hey - it worked!
Over to the shops and then back to start work updating the site. Went over for a roast dinner and beer at the restaurant. A family with a very loud baby were dining there. Red lights made it a little difficult to see things clearly and I sat at a table next to the big wood fire heater which was 'off'. Snacked my way through this evening and I think I will have stayed under the total of $90 I assigned to my time in Khancoban. It's 44 minutes into Good Friday and I'm finished!! Time to upload!
Friday 13th April : Good Friday : Khancoban's Toilets
1km, 15min, a struggled walk.
Where was the bad water?
To bed at 2:40am after updating and up loading the site. I really have to go full on when I get electricity AND a phone line. Again it was good to get the email. I had a lot to do so I crammed. Probably a few errors on every page but that's the price you pay when you don't have time to proofread and are eager to get on the road again.
Woke at 6:45 with a mild stomach cramp. By 7:10 I knew that spewing would be on the cards at some stage in the morning and I hoped that it would be sooner than later. Yep - it's time to get a little graphic. I had no appetite, was drinking lots of water and could not get the concept of tapeworms out of my little skull. Diarrhoea and a bit of dry reaching. The floor tiles were cold. Packed up the gear extremely slowly from the catastrophic mess I'd designed the previous evening. I had to do something in the meantime. Had a hot shower and felt heaps better. Icy cold - 10*C inside a fully insulated room. Snow in the mountains for sure.
Had a cup of uncomfortable tea laced with honey half an hour after my first 'religious' episode. Ate a muesli bar too. Didn't really help. Feeling very weak. Signed out and asked about the hospital and Corryong about 25km away. Best advice was to hitch a lift from the servo. Thought I'd wait till noon to decide. Fly fishing couple from Geehi Walls were in town to make a phone call. Told them my woes and they were very sympathetic. They were kind enough to offer help but there was nothing I or they could really do.
Seriously violent religious episode from both ends. Felt like a human fountain of toxic waste. Tea looks bad 2nd time round - very bad. Weak as. Lay down in the sun to regain something (energy, colour, composure - I wasn't sure). Nibbled on tiny bits of banana and then like an Einstein decided that a frozen thick shake would go down well. It did, and very slowly. Was expecting to see a rerun of both these items with the frequency of silly seasons my body was having but the ratings held steady.
Talked to servo people about the situation and they suggested ringing the hospital and talking to the nurse. Bravo - why didn't I think of that? Talked to the nurse and she suggested staying put unless I took a turn for the worse. Said it's probably a 24hr bug and to sit it out. "Consume everything slowly and in small amounts, and keep liquids up " was her advice.
Strolled down to the Khancoban Lakeside Caravan Resort (KLCR) and got a site to collapse into for the rest of the day. Tent was painful to set up but it had to be done. Slept on and off in the heated tent until 3 or 4pm. Read some brochures I'd picked up (resort blurb and MTB code) then cleaned gears and adjusted the height of the front derailleur so it cleared the plate chain ring when on the second one (had been grating slightly).
Am going to do tomato soup now. The only thing considerable for dinner tonight. I don't 'feel like chicken tonight' that's for sure. Possibly use gas BBQ at grounds. Nope. Heated using stove and ate slowly and surely. Cleaned up and then settled in to camp for the evening. Noisy as with music from different directions, kids, kids on bikes, kids chasing each other, kids kicking balls, babies crying... it must be Easter. It's like being in the middle of a circus.
P.S. The lack of photos here reflects my ability and inclination to operate my camera in these circumstances.
Saturday 14th April : Khancoban (KLCR) to Clover Flat
30.5km, 3h 05min, max 62km/hr.
A Six Hat Analysis.
Note : Today's journal entry is structured around Edward De Bono's Six Hat Thinking. Each hat has a colour that represents a specific type of thinking. This strategy enables topics being thought about to be approached in a more structured manner, thus enabling a better picture of the topic. One hat at a time = clear thinking. A useful tool for meetings where discussions of problems go round in circles without providing a solution. Try it.
Black Hat (negative, judgement, bad points)
Very wet inside tent this morning upon waking - excessive condensation
Sleeping bag half wet from condensation contact with inner fly
Skin on fingers very dry and continuing to crack
Front derailleur still not 100% right - 1 and 1/2 pushes to engage 2nd chain
ring
Have to be more particular about H2O collection and use and eating habits
Public phones operate inconsistently in these regions
Cabramurra Rd has a high incidence of road kills... and they stink
Left the trail again so will miss out on Mt Black Jack Fire Lookout
Yellow Hat (benefits, good points, the bright side)
Showers at the caravan resort were hot, hot, hot on a cold morning
Smaller more frequent drinks while riding feels better and gives me a few
minutes rest
Blue sky, sun out, about 20*C and a bitumen road
Wearing bike pants and not MTB shorts today
Had time to wash riding gear and it was mostly dry before I left KLCR
Fascinating changes in the road cuttings along the road to Cabramurra
Campsite for the night as tables, fireplaces, flat grass, accessible H2O, toilet and
is not far off the road
Meeting Ian, Heidi and the boys (including Mal 'the fire feeder') and chatting
with them
Damper turned out just super and I gave half to the crew above
Red Hat (feelings, emotions, hunches)
Still feeling a bit weak
Started to feel better into cycle but strength not there after 25km
Elated that I was able to ride today and get so far without straining
Very satisfied with the campsite and happy that it appeared when it did
A hunch that tomorrow will yield something special around the Happy Jacks
area
Disappointed that I was not able to reach Steven on the phone before I left
Khancoban
Glad to be in better health and to get away from Khancoban
Feel justified in leaving the trail for a bit - am joining it tomorrow in about
20km and saw a fire lookout at the Pinnacles
Green Hat (creative, interesting points, new ideas -design / explain / action / forecast)
Baking soda helps remove the smell and dirt from dirty cycling gear so I'll get
some more
Caravan resort was pretty packed with kids who got up early and were noisy -
Easter!
People stroll around in their pajamas in the caravan park as late as 9:30am
I rode past a Frisian moss road cutting
I let the path choose me and I kept on cycling!
Does a fully unzipped insect screen on the tent inner reduce condensation?
White Hat (facts - those you have, and those you don't have)
Khancoban is under the Sydney/Canberra to Melbourne flight path
Travelled 30.5km today in 3hours and 5 minutes
Reached my new campsite at 2:30pm
Had time to boil water and to carefully make a damper
Synthetic nicks are just as warm to cycle in as MTB shorts
Am fitting a full heavy load into panniers (which is 'basket' in French)
comfortably
This area is in Kosciuszko National Park and is considered wilderness
I can now spell Kosciuszko correctly - I apologise for recent misspellings
Blue Hat (order, steps, sequence, planning)
Start with the black hat, then yellow, then as I feel I need to think writing this
Relax again tomorrow - do something different in the morning
Don't rush the days and stay around 30km a day
When packing take breaks so I don't feel tired before I leave - it can be strenuous
Sunday 15th April : Easter Sunday : Clover Flat to Happy Jacks Pondage
39.3km, 3h 33min, max 63km/hr.
A rap for you musical types.
Awoke to the cold - man it was chilly.
I had to stay real snug - didn't-want-to freeze my...
The others packed up, and got on their way.
I'm a Queenslander - hey! what could I say?
2&Mac251;C man - that's far too icy.
I need some food that's hot (and maybe) spicy.
I said "good-bye", to them as I soaked...
in the sun's warm rays - Hmmm..man I was stoked.
Another sun-ray-day - yo! Rain-stay-a-way!
I'm gonna go a-riding to a place not-far-a-way.
(random rappy noises here for a bit and in subsequent gaps
Made me some tea, on my MSR stove.
There's no rhyming word for that-that I can think of Bro!
Got out my snazz camera - and set her up.
After I'd finished, a-slurping on my cup.
iBook out - and typed up the hats...
of yesterday's thinking - hip! - dig that Cats!
I gotta photo of it here - here for you to see.
Take a look now, and hum a weirdo melody :
I hit the road Jack - yo like a-rolling along.
Rolled a little fast, didn't push the tredly along.
Saw Tooma Dam - it was barren like the moon.
Left pretty quick Bro - lunch it was on soon.
20k's in - I came to the turn...
ridin' on snow grass gets the calories to burn.
We'd hit a dead end (my bike and me).
Turned around and detoured (it was easier you see).
Up to 15 Mile Ridge - but not 15 mile along.
Mobile flickered in but then the signal was gone.
Weary-weary-weary in the legs I became.
Passed the 30k's and was feelin' sorta lame.
Pulled up at a spot - 'CAMP' it said in the book...
'Beware of flash flooding' - so I only took one look.
Pushed on a little - till I found a rocky clearing :
not very homey, but a-soon I was endearing.
Bring it on nature! - I can sleep on some rocks!
I can... bummer, man - those are prickles in my socks.
Made me bean pasta - g-g-g (real) good!
Cleaned. Packed. Zipped. Toasty warm in my hood.
Hey now - a rap is way cool, for a journal enter-ree.
Listen in Joe - so it's p-p-p-plain for you to see :
You can play with the rhyme, or you can fool with the rhythm,
you can rap it anyway - with no fear of genre sinnin'.
You kan alter the spellin', and go major hyphen-crazy,
but when you go to rap it - there'll be no bein' lazy!
Snatch-snatch-snatch-snatch some dark sunnies - get into the grove
Turn that cap 'round back to front - get ready to mooooo-ove.
Do it with a partner with yo both pointin' fingers!
Loud-fast-high then low so in their memory it lingers.
Oh yeah, one last thing, before I gotta go...
Remember to say, lots of "hey-hip-man-yo-Bro!"
Notes:
Walking steep slopes : I don't know which is worse - walking up or down steep slopes. It is two days after the Mt K. climb and my quads are still sore. Really, I should be stretching them. What would Kelly think?
The Rap : Yeah, I'm not a pro but it was worth a go. I'm getting a little tired of the regular type of entry and I thought it might challenge the writer and readers. Let's see some emails to me in rap - now there's a challenge!
Shauno - Bakeries are indeed gifts bestowed upon communities by the dough gods. I can't believe how good they are. Absence makes the yeast grow stronger.
Ang - How come you didn't suffer the side effects of Khancobanism. Was it something you left in the parcel? Nice town but hey? - very pretty and well set out.
Bron - How was my 6 Hat day? I had to keep it in check a little so it didn't get out of hand and boring. Hope others try or at least understand.
Week Four
April 9, 2001
"Riding along on my push bike honey... I want some biscuits..."
Version as sung on my voice mail by my bored flatmates -
Shauno Fe and Jase.