ONE 'A Quick Visit'

“Heading towards Khancoban, and after the most sensational 10km downhill, we came across Major Clews Hut, a fine afternoon tea spot. Parking the bikes against the outside wall, my front wheel startled a snake, which on reflection looked suspiciously like an Eastern Brown. Anyway it appeared to shoot off, so we continued into the hut. On opening the 'kitchen' door, Reb was confronted by a very unhappy brown snake thrashing wildly and waving its head in an intensely aggressive fashion. We left promptly.”

[This is an excerpt from David Waugh's journal]

TWO 'Alpine Riding'

While waiting for the phone box at Licola on my detour two blokes, one young and one old sat down. After buying a pie inside they had stopped and seen my BNT Guidebooks lying on the table. The younger Alistair asked if I was doing the trail and told me that it sounded good on a MTB and that it would be a real adventure. The elder Peter (who I assumed wrongly to be Alistair's father) stepped up and had a look at my Eastern Victoria map and then said that he'd ridden the trail on horseback.

Peter had taken 17 months to ride the trail from Cooktown to Healsville. Somewhere along the way he had coincidentally met up with Alistair who had started from the Withcott Pub at the bottom of the Toowoomba Range and was heading south as well.

That was a few years ago. They had said that I'd meet some great people. Obviously they were a good example for Peter had come down for a holiday with Alistair (who lives in Victoria) from... Winton (Mt Cameron side) to do some more riding with Alistair. Peter couldn't believe I was born in Winton and had a fair idea about where I'd lived there - it's a small world.

They gave me some useful advice on the places to avoid between Omeo and Canberra and possible alternative routes considering my tendon predicament. Hells Gate got a big thumbs down.

It turns out that we were heading in the same direction today - towards Kelly Hut and that I might see them again up there.

Indeed I did. The next morning as I was fare-weling some horse riders who'd give me some top local advice they pulled up in their 4WD and said g'day. They were going to camp where this other lot had just been. Good on ya fellas.

THREE ' Pit Thunderboxes - A study in progress'

Many of the more public campsites have a pit toilet facility. They are installed to minimise the risk of human waste related infections in natural water courses and to add some privacy to camping for city slickers. These are truly wonderful feats of engineering and a great way to spend taxpayers' money. A basic need is made more comfortable and they also give the old trowel a rest from scraping at the rock.

There are many variations to the theme of thunderboxes. Here are some which have been encountered thus far along the trail :

1. All have a cement floor and a pit. No variations here but I thought your should be aware of this sometimes overlooked luxury.

2. Clearance between the walls and the floor ranges from 5cm to 20cm.

3. General structure can be made from wood, treated wood, steel frame and tin, steel frame and cladding.4. Ages range from brand new (yes, I've had the honour) to about 8-10 years old.

5. Rooves are mostly flat, but some A-frames, of wood, sheet tin or perspex. No tiles or thatching yet... maybe in QLD.

6. Most common latches are bolt latches, also bolt latch inside and out, push pull bolt with locking pin on chain, a rock, lift and drop latch, iron 'convict style' ring and latch.

7. Toilet paper is not provided in Victorian thunderboxes. Most in NSW have been to date, but this may only be due to Easter.

8. Seats range from black, green, white and beige (all cold) with colour being like a lottery. All have matching lids (how quaint) so that the system works effectively.

9. Interior decorating comes in juvenile graffiti, basic usage instructions, pit toilet theory, authoritative directions and warnings, N.P. information and notices or text free zone styles.

10. Optional extras have included a second rock, limiting chain on door, disinfectant spray bottle, muddy footprints, horseshoes and chimney with fan. No visitors books sighted yet.

My two favourites to date are :

EAGLEVALE : Treated wood, door half off hinges but had limiting chain (to stop it completely falling off?), no toilet paper and the 'convict style' latch. A struggle with the door to ensure privacy, but the latch just made the whole experience worthwhile

MT CLEAR POUND : Old peeling paint wood construction with some stylish horseshoes, plenty of N.P. literature on the walls, hidden 'no rubbish in pit please' notice (visible to males only), toilet roll provided and two spares, bolt latch in and outside, and a perspex roof. Heaps of character and the perspex roof was a significant advancement in engineering - you didn't feel like you'd locked yourself in a cave. (In photo above)

FOUR 'I don't think I've mentioned...'

1. Butterflies

There are these brown butterflies. On only 2 out of the 30 days so far have I failed to see one while riding, and I think that this was due to the weather. I can't believe that I see them with such frequency.

Some things you take for granted on the trail - there will be another hill, I am isolated, the road is rocky etc.- but some you don't. These butterflies are one of those things.

I was a little sad the first time I realised I'd had a butterflyless day. It was like something was missing. You can't help but notice them - they alight from your path, fly in front of your face, or just hover in the vicinity as you rumble on past. I never expect to see them when I start each day, but I do.

These butterflies (originally called 'flutter bys') are nothing special in the world of {insert 'insect-ology' name here }. They are obviously plentiful, but are not startling in colour, shape or size. They are like a constant reminder to look to and for the simple, less obvious things that you pass daily and appreciate them for their existence and place in nature.

I have never stopped to take a photo of one of these butterflies and I don't know if I will. They have, however, provided me with a most lasting memory of the section of the trail between Melbourne and Canberra.

2. Special Rocks

Another thing I see with notable regularity are 'special rocks'. The rocks themselves aren't that special for they are just like any other bit or rock that's on the road. What makes them special is the thing placed deliberately upon it. Let's call that thing a 'turd'.

Now you may say "Hang on - this is just a coincidence of placement and gravity". Untrue, for on most fire trails and tracks I have travelled along I have spotted one. I thought the same thing early on in the piece. ‘How uncanny’ me thinks - ‘what odd creature would have the tenacity, motivation and skill to complete such a maneuver?’ The 'turd' is that of a mammal I would presume, as it is somewhere between the size of a sheep's pellet and a dog's 'fido' (is there a technical term for a dog's 'x'?). It is usually neatly on the stone and rarely are any misplaced. A work of retro animal art on most occasions.

I can only think that they belong to rock wallabies ...hence the name. (Any ideas as to the owners?)

The evidence is mounting.

THE MYSTERY SOLVED! An informative friend of Randy and Jody's named Peter contributed the answer to the baffling mystery above which has been boggling our minds for a few months. Here's his explanation :

"The rocks with strategically placed turds are a common sight in the high country of Victoria. The culprit is also common - the Common Wombat.

Wombats go out of there way to leave their turds in the open on rocks, often quite elevated. I've seen them deposited on rocks that are a good six inches high. A friend was told by a NP Ranger at Kosciuszko that one reason is that in the high country burying waste is less effective due the lower levels of biotic activity in the soil, and the higher UV sterilizes all the bacteria in the turd when left in the open. I think wombats just get a kick out of leaving their little signposts about."

So for those skeptics - I wasn't setting them up just to toy with your intelligence!

But wait! There's' more fuel to add to the fire of mystery dung!

Knowledgeable reader Greg explained further that we're dealing with poor wombat digestive physiology. The 'bats rub their lower abdomen on the rock or log (or other natural pedestal) to stimulate the movement of 'stuffs' in their digestive system. Then out it pops for all to see and ponder. (This is much more fun to visualise.)

How unusual.

This peculiarity still begs a lot of answers.